I left Hilo this morning at a little after 8 - after I got a little hung up trying to get to Rainbow Falls. It turns out that one of the main roads out of town - the road leading to Saddle Road (which I was not trying to take) - is switched from its normal 2-way road to a 1-one road going in the direction that I did not want to go for what I guess is the getting to school rush hour. It was close enough to 8 AM that I just waited out the direction change. I wanted to see Rainbow Falls before I headed north, and although there was no rainbow across the falls, they were beautiful.
Rainbow Falls
Speaking of Saddle Road... Jean and John are staying at a B&B in Hilo for 2 nights - I really wonder what they'll do to keep themselves busy today. Then they'll be camping for 1 night north of Hilo before heading back to the west side of the island. All John had to hear was that the rental car companies don't allow you to take their cars across Saddle Road for him to decide to take that road! The rental car contract specifically says that the contract excludes driving on Saddle Road. From my understanding the road is in good shape from Hilo to the Mauna Kea turnoff, but is in bad shape from the turnoff to the west. What I've heard is that the road was really torn up, and when it was repaved only a single lane down the middle was paved. It's possible that the road is no worse than some of the one lane two-way roads that I've driven on this trip, but I suspect it is either rougher or that it's harder to reach via tow truck. The rental car maps also try to exclude a few other roads - including the road to South Point. I conveniently ignored that warning since it wasn't mentioned in the contract.
Time to head north. What's that? A 4-mile scenic route off the main road? I have to say that I should know better. I took the scenic route, and although there were a few views of the ocean, most of the road was in the trees so the views were no better than those from the main road. I learned that roads marked as scenic routes often aren't more scenic than the main road many years ago, and that little fact is still true. Oh well, at least this one was relatively short! After that little detour I headed off the main route again, this time to visit Akaka Falls. If there was any question in my mind about why I didn't stop there on my bike tour last year, there isn't a question any more. After the turn inland, the road seemed to go up and up and up. The falls were beautiful, a long and narrow drop - well worth the side trip in a car...
After my waterfall diversion, I continued on highway 19 (remember, it's only called a highway - it's really a 2-lane road) to Waimea. From there I could see the top of Mauna Kea, still snow-capped and bristling with telescopes. Then I switched to the Kohala Mountain Road. I don't know the exact elevation of Waimea, but I believe it is between 1200 and 1500 feet. I remember Kohala Mountain Road from biking it last year. I wasn't able to take as many photos as I wanted last year because I hate getting started again on that kind of uphill grade. Unfortunately, there weren't too many places to pull a car over on that road either, so many of the photos are still in my head. The high spot on that road - I think - is just above 3000 feet. As I started the downhill portion I could see Maui rise above the ocean in front of me. Beautiful.
Cactus, and I believe that's Mauna Kea off in the distance
At the end of the road I took a new turn for me and headed back to the east. My destination was Pololu Valley, which is a hike from the end of the road. It's a significant drop down into the valley on a steep trail. I wish I had checked my watch before heading down because I suspect that it took me as long to walk down the trail - or maybe even longer - as it did for the return uphill journey. I've always preferred hiking uphill because it seems like my feet stay where I expect them to. On the way down it's a little easier to step on a rock that decides not to stay still. I did check the time on my way back up, and I was surprised to see that it took about 15 minutes of solid uphill walking. It felt longer than that, probably due to the heat and the sun. At the bottom was a black sand beach. The edge of the beach was a layer of rocks, and the area just inland was forested. It might have been interesting to walk up the valley a bit, but it was clearly marked as private property. There were sheer cliffs dropping to the ocean on both sides of the beach. I think there was supposed to be another trail leading up the cliff on the east side of the beach, but I didn't try to find it. I figured just hiking down and back up once was enough for the day.
Pololu Beach
When I passed through Kapa'au on the way out to Pololu Valley I noticed a couple of galleries, so I stopped there on my way back through. The woman in one of galleries asked if I'd just come from hiking up from Pololu Valley when she noticed the sweat still rolling off of me. Then she offered me a bottle of water, which I definitely accepted. It turns out that she goes out there often with her teenage son who is training for something by running up and down that trail. I did end up buying something there, but not because of the water!
On to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel... I'm back again to the sound of crashing waves to help me sleep at night. I just love that sound. It's not as loud here as at the Kona Tiki the first 2 nights, but it is certainly a noticeable and soothing sound. At this place there is a choice since you can get a mountain view room as well as my choice of an oceanfront room. And it could be very easy to be spoiled by the service in this hotel. (I think that even my sister Suze would find this place acceptable, and that's saying a lot!) I was greeted with a treat of fresh papaya and apple bananas when I got to my room, and it was definitely time for a snack! (Apple bananas? They look like a smaller version of regular bananas - I'll have to look up where the name came from, but that will have to wait until I get home.) My snack urge satisfied, it was time to wash off all of that sunscreen with a shower - this place has great water pressure and immediate hot water - a first on this trip. I rinsed out clothes before I headed out - remember, I only brought 2 sets of everyday clothes with me. I hung my clean clothes out on the balcony to dry (yes, they were definitely out of sight!) and left the wet towels in the bathroom. I headed out, and when I returned to the room later not only was the bed turned down but the wet towels were gone and replaced by clean ones. Spoiled? I think so!
One of those beautiful tropical sunsets... it's amazing how fast the sun just drops into the sea
Tomorrow? I plan to do some wandering and walking - but I'm also planning to spend some time at the beach, really a first for this trip.
Photos for today can be found in my Southwest coast, Hilo, & north to Waimea and Kohala Coast photo galleries.
