Denise Goldberg's blog

An experience on two feet instead of two (bicycle) wheels
Denise's 2004 adventures in Hawaii

Sunday, September 19, 2004

A volcano watch, or what is Kilauea up to?

I've been keeping an eye on the volcanic activity in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I'm hoping that there will be some active lava within walking distance, but based on the daily updates from the Hawaii Volcano Observatory, I'm not holding my breath. It seems that the volcano is hiding its small amount of activity in locations that may be difficult for me to reach. It also sounds like the little activity out there is nicely visible at the edges of the daylight, but I'm not going to walk on the very uneven (and sharp) volcanic surface without sufficient light to see where I'm heading.

The park is beautiful with or without active lava flowing, and I still plan to spend some time wandering about by foot.

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Although the volcano was quiet on my visit there in 2003, there was some active lava.

Monday, September 13, 2004

Ah, decisions made, all set with places to stay...

While I'm still tossing around ideas of how I'll spend my days in Hawaii, I just finished making reservations for places to stay.

On October 22nd & 23rd I'll be at the Kona Tiki Hotel in Kailua-Kona. I stayed at this very laid back hotel to the south of the main drag in Kona on my last trip to Hawaii. It's a very simple and funky place right on the water. The hotel sits just behind a seawall, so the sound of waves crashing against the wall will be a constant visitor.

October 24th & 25th will bring a return visit to Macadamia Meadows Farm B&B in Na'alehu. I loved this place on my last visit. It's very close to South Point although not walking distance. My hostess, Charlene Cowan, treated me last year with a ride to see South Point - remember my only transportation on that trip was my bicycle, and riding down to South Point and back again after all day on the bike just wasn't going to happen. I was fascinated, and I plan to go back to South Point on this trip and do some walking. And in case you're curious, yes, this B&B is on a working macademia nut farm!

On October 26th & 27th I'll be returning to another B&B that I really liked the first time around - Aloha Junction B&B in Volcano. It's a great place to stay with wonderful breakfasts, and of course it has the side attraction of being just outside of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I definitely plan to spend some time wandering on that black lava!

I'll be in Hilo on October 28th, and I'll be staying at Wild Ginger Inn. I've never stayed here before, but it sounds great. The woman who answered the phone when I called for a reservation made sure I knew that there's no pool or air conditioning, which doesn't bother me at all. It sounds like this place has character, and the reviews I've seen on tripadvisor.com made it sound like a place that I'll like.
A quick update after my return home... while the Wild Ginger Inn was OK, it lacked something that I found in my stay at the Kona Tiki - something I expected here too. And that something was a place to connect with other guests. There is a lobby with comfortable chairs (and a hammock) - but I only saw 2 other people there. If you're looking for an inexpensive place to stay where you will definitely connect with other people, I'd recommend Arnott's Lodge instead of here. The downside is that it is further from the downtown area (and restaurants). The upside is that it is made for connecting with other guests, and you'll have your choice of lodging - from camping on the lawn to hostel-style accommodations, to private rooms.

For the last two nights, October 29th and 30th, I'll be returning to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel on the Kohala Coast. This place is definitely a splurge, and is much more expensive than my normal abodes on vacation. But I wanted a couple of beach days and I really enjoyed my stay here on my last Hawaii trip. I have a reservation for a room in the Beach Front wing, and I'm looking forward to its ambience.

The last night of my vacation won't be in a hotel, but on an airplane. My flight home leaves Hawaii at 11:30pm, arriving in Los Angeles very early the next morning, and then on to Boston with a late afternoon arrival time. One of these trips I could very easily decide to just stay in Hawaii...



I realized this morning that my trip is just 5 short weeks away. It was April when I made the decision to visit the Big Island again - a vacation planned for six months out. The summer passed by slowly for me with my ongoing recovery, and I made the decision to switch this trip to a journey without bicycle wheels only 3 weeks ago. But the time continues to melt away, and I believe the next 5 weeks will fly away!

Sunday, September 05, 2004

Luggage? Lightweight and minimal is the plan

When I travel by bike I naturally need to limit how much I take with me. After all, everything I bring with me translates to weight on the bike, weight that makes me and the bike move slowly...

This trip is different since I'll be using a fossil-fuel powered vehicle instead of a human-powered vehicle. But - my plans are to bring only a small amount of stuff with me. I'm so used to traveling by bike and needing to wash out clothes in the evening that I think I'll follow that habit for this trip too. That means (I hope) that I'll be able to get by with just a small carry-on bag.

What do I think I really need? Well, I assume that I'll be wearing shorts most of the time - so 2 pairs of shorts and 2 sleeveless shirts, 2 pairs of underwear, 2 sports bras. That's a start. I'll definitely add to that a bathing suit. And I'll bring a skirt - a super lightweight Terry wrapper - and another top. That will give me a change if I want to eat in a nice restaurant. Let's see, what else do I need? Since it will be late October it's likely I'll leave home in a pair of long pants and a short-sleeved shirt. And I might need a vest to keep the chill out on the plane. Those traveling clothes can do double duty as cool weather attire if I need it during my stay in Volcano. What about rain? I have a very light-weight water resistant windbreaker from Patagonia - called the Dragonfly when I bought it, but it seems to have been replaced by something named Houdini - and that's definitely going too. Shoes? Well my primary shoes will be my Chaco sandals, but I'll also bring a pair of lightweight hiking shoes (and a couple pairs of socks) for wandering on the sharp lava. Toilet articles (minimal) and sunscreen. Hmmm... is that starting to sound like too much? I think it will all fit in a small bag, and I think I'll still have room to spare. I guess I'll just have to see when I start to pack!

Monday, August 30, 2004

Dreaming...

What's different about this trip? Well, the first and biggest thing is that my mode of transportation will be a car instead of my body and my bike. I'm still planning on circling the island though; this will not be a sitting on the beach vacation.

My thoughts right now are to start with a day in Kona just to recover from my flight. I don't land there until 9 PM local time, which given the six hour time change makes it 3 AM in my time. My next stop will be Na'alehu and two nights at Macademia Meadows B&B. From there I'll wander to South Point to do some hiking, and maybe I'll spend some time at the beach. Next, on to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park for a few days of wandering. Then I'll spend some time along the east side of the island before ending my stay with two days of rest and relaxation at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.


Ah... the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has a wonderful beach for a bit of relaxation.


I have some reading to do between now and when I set foot on the island. Hawaii, The Big Island Revealed is a great guidebook from Wizard Publications that I used when I planned last year's trip. (You're right, I do like the name of the publisher!) It needs another reading.

Sunday, August 29, 2004

Traveling on two wheels?

...no, walking! Plans are apparently made to be changed

It was April when I planned a trip to Hawaii for late October of 2004. I enjoyed last year's bicyle tour around the Big Island so much that I decided that I would repeat a variation of it this year. That was an easy decision to make, but the ultimate decision for the form this year's trip will take was a hard one for me.

On May 20th, I had a somewhat spectacular bike crash on my way to work. When I was released from the hospital, I was still set on this trip being a bike tour, but I think that I knew in the back of my mind that it would be a stretch. I gave myself until the end of August to decide whether my trip would be a bike tour as planned, or would be something else. It was a hard decision for me to make, because I really wanted to do it as a bike tour.

I've been back on my bike since the 3rd of July, six long weeks after the crash. My docs have told me to expect it to take six to twelve months (from the date of the accident) to return to what I'd consider normal. I'm definitely not there yet. The longest ride I've managed so far is 28 miles, and that's a long cry from what I'd need to be able to ride comfortably for a happy multi-day ride around the Big Island. Looking back at distances from last year's tour, there are three days that I think would be a big challenge to me in my current condition - two days between 50 and 60 miles that have a few long uphills in them, and one day of 40+ miles that is all uphill. At this point in my recovery, I'm a long way from a 50 to 60 mile day, to say nothing of the hills. And while two months is definitely enough time to prepare for a trip like this one when I'm in what I'd consider to be normal physical state, it just doesn't feel like reality to me right now. I wasn't too concerned about the extra weight on the bike from carying my gear since I'd already decided to do the trip with just 2 panniers (the smaller front panniers carried on the rear rack) and a minimum of gear.

My decision is to go to Hawaii in October without my bike. I don't think anyone will disagree that the Big Island of Hawaii is a wonderful destination, even without a bicycle. I'll still be wandering around the island and I can't imagine taking a vacation that doesn't involve some physical activity. I'm sure I'll do some hiking in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and in some other spots around the island. Maybe I'll spend a little rest time on a beach. Maybe I'll do something different like find a place to rent a kayak and do a little paddling in the ocean. Maybe...